Willie’s View: Luing

By Willie Shand | Jul 9, 2021

Willie’s view turns to the island of Luing this week, as he hops on a ferry with just his bicycle and camera.

Leaving early for Luing

I had an early start this morning, leaving home at the back of 4am. With clear roads, I was in Oban before 7am. With a hot, sunny day forecast I was heading for the Cuan Ferry to the island of Luing; crossing first on to the Isle of Seil over the famous Bridge over the Atlantic.

As well as the camera, I’d brought my bike. Leaving the car at Balvicar, I was in plenty time to make the first ferry. Luing is only 6 miles long by 1.5 miles wide. With 9 miles of quiet singletrack road, the island is ideal for an easy day on the bike.

Packed and ready

In my pannier bags, I’d packed my boots, too. The island’s highest hill, Cnoc Dhomhnuill, being high on my list of to-dos. It’s less than 300 feet high, but few hills can beat the view you win from the top. From Ben More on Mull to Easdale, Cruachan and out over the Hebrides. I couldn’t have had a better day for it.

Picture postcard

Cullipool, with its old slate quarries, is a picture postcard at every turn. The new Atlantic Islands Centre was there on my last visit, so it was also on my list. Good coffee there, and the scones had just come out of the oven.

That set me up just fine for a climb up the hill, then the run down Toberonochy and Black Mill Bay. At Black Mill Bay, a herd of Luing Cattle were cooling off on the beach.

A tinned tea

I survived the day on little more than the scone and coffee. Returning in the evening to Balvicar, I don’t think I could have enjoyed a dinner more than I did the tins of Ambrosia rice and peaches I had on the kirkyard bench before heading for home again.

From dawn until dusk, it was just one of those rare days.